Inside Annapolis | Reviews


Small Plates and Big Tastes on the South River

Paul’s on the South River
3027 Riva Rd.
Riva, Maryland
410-956-3410
www.PaulsontheSouthRiver.com
Moderate to expensive
Appetizers, soups and salads: $5 to $11
Entrees: $27 to $38
Petite Entrees: $17 to $22
Hours: Lunch: Tues. - Fri. 11:30 a.m.–3:00 p.m.
Dinner: Tues. - Sun. 5:00 to 10:00 p.m.
Extensive wine list
Ample parking.
All major credit cards accepted.

If you are looking for something special for an occasion, such as a birthday, an anniversary or other celebratory event, Paul’s on the South River is where you find the personal touch. When calling for reservations, be specific about the type of festivity you have in mind.

For example, if it’s a birthday, after you arrive and are seated, your server will bring the birthday newsletter recalling the celebrant’s birth date that includes significant world events, important sports happenings, a cost of living comparison, other personalities born on that day, popular songs and movies. After the meal, a cake with three lighted candles symbolizing health, wealth and happiness will appear along with a mini box of Moore’s Candies of Baltimore for the guest of honor and more Moore’s chocolates for other guests. The birthday person will not be embarrassed, since singing happy birthday is not part of the occasion.

Paul’s on the South River is not only a destination restaurant; it is also a seasonal dining opportunity. The food reflects the best of the sea, turf and field for that time of year. When we visited recently, the appetizers included ethereal crab puffs with tempura coating. A recommended unique offering is “Five Spoons,” a selection of chilled shrimp, crab puff, escargot (lobster in the summer), stuffed mushroom and wasabi lump crab—each nestled on its own silver spoon with appropriate dressing, served on a long black tray.

In this era of small plate sampling, the appetizers were most tempting. The iron-skillet mussels were sautéed with basil, carrots, tomatoes, garlic, corn, onion and Andouille sausage -- then bathed in white wine for a most sensuous and satisfying dish. And the calamari was a superb choice—tender squid rings tossed with crushed peanuts, deep-fried and artfully presented in a stemmed glass with a spicy Thai sauce.

The seafood bisque stood out, a spicy Bahamian soup with shrimp, crab and scallops brought to a peak with tomato and dill. Traditional Caesar salad was a treat with a crispness and tang that testified it was made in-house from “scratch.” All sauces and dressings are made in-house each morning under the watchful eye of Kitchen Manager Brad Kappel.

Now, here’s a pleasant surprise. Voss artesian water from Norway, characterized as “liquid air” is served in individual cylindrical bottles, each sealed with tape at the foreign source. Another favorite that accompanied many of the entrée selections was the “crushed potato” side—first cooked, then gently crushed with seasonings, sour cream and butter, and brought to a delicate brown, served in white ramekins, or on the plate, as fitting.

Among the entrees, the most popular selection, as noted by the general manager, is the “Three Times Crab” consisting of crab imperial, broiled crab cake and stuffed shrimp. The crab imperial was light, overwhelmed with back fin lump and gently browned with a glorious crust; the tasty crab cake was slightly spicier, dusted with crumbs and gently broiled; and the jumbo shrimp was stuffed with imperial crab before broiling.

On our two visits, our guests were primarily seafood lovers, but two diners selected the beef, one a large filet mignon stuffed with crab and topped with Gouda cheese and the other, from the popular petite entrées selection, a modest Angus filet mignon served in a port wine sauce. Both were cooked just as ordered and pleased our out of town guests.

The menu is extensive, so be sure to consult the petite entrees. They were our favorite in size because they offered ample portions that melded with our appetites. Among our picks were the steamed clams and shrimp in a crushed tomato oregano and cilantro sauce with bacon, pearl onions, carrots and sweet red peppers. Here was a “symphony of tastes,” according to one visitor.

The main dining room seats 90 guests and two additional rooms are reserved for special celebrations or large dining crowds on days such as Mother’s Day or Easter, bringing the total capacity to 250 persons. The ambiance is tasteful with banquettes of red leather and quantities of white linen set off with small lights in lacey hanging globes in the main dining room. Photographer Beauregard sets a certain elegant tone in his portraits in the foyer. The other rooms are well-dressed for their special occasions.

All of this festivity and activity is orchestrated by General Manager Loveta Wilen who has been creating menus, organizing events and tending to the multitude of restaurant demands for 22 years and for the last ten years for current owner Bert Kappel. She noted that the building was purchased in 1946 and named Paul’s on the South River by Paul Sternoff. At the maitre d’s station you can see a back and white photograph depicting the structure 60 years ago when it was a modest eatery featuring slot machines.

Paul’s still sits on Riva Road at the south end of the Riva Bridge. But, its life is different now—a remodeled, high-end restaurant that serves impressive seasonal dishes. Beautiful views are a bonus for visiting this destination.
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