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Inside Annapolis
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Seafood With a View
of the Bay
By Patricia Barry
Ernest Hemingway's
gusto for life is summed
up in his words, "Salud, Amor y Pesetas"---"Health, Love and
Money!" He had a passion for food, drink and fellowship.
Chatting with Biana Arentz can transport one back to the unforgettable
heroines of Nobel Prize winner Ernest Hemingway's novels. And,
like his writing, she is spirited and captivating. She is also
the owner of Hemingway's, at the foot of the Chesapeake Bay
Bridge on Maryland's Eastern Shore.
A
native of Puerto Rico, Ms. Arentz graduated from Georgetown
University. Her lifetime experience in the food industry began
in restaurants in the George-town section of Washington, D.C.
She bought Hemingway's with a silent partner in 1991 and became
sole proprietor in 2002.
A long, wooden ramp provides a pleasant alternative to steps
(although still available) to reach the main section of the
restaurant. The atmosphere at Hemingway's is reminiscent of
the locations where "Papa" Hemingway lived---the Florida Keys,
Cuba and Spain. You'll notice wooden fish-scale shingles on
the ceiling, bamboo and rattan chairs, touches of polished brass
and large ficus trees. Photos and art work depicting Hemingway
the adventurer and sportsman are prominent. However, nautical
charts deeply set in sturdy wooden dining tables will fix you
mainly in the Chesapeake.
Our lunch-time visit occurred on a sparkling day when the water
glistened like moving mini mirrors. From the main floor of the
restaurant. the diner has a 180-degree view of the Bay, including
the two spans of the Bay Bridge, beaches on the western shore,
the three remaining towers at the North Severn Naval Station
and the punctuated skyline of Annapolis. The Bay-side deck offers
great rubbernecking, watching the endless variety of sail- and
powerboats navigating the channel to get into Pier One Marina
adjacent to Hemingway's.
The luncheon menu is tempting. My ally in food succumbed to
the cream of crab soup and attested that it was in a class by
itself---rich with generous lumps of backfin crabmeat and redolent
with sherry. He followed with the fried oyster platter---juicy
fresh oysters lightly coated with Japanese breadcrumbs, then
deep-fried. They were outstanding. My choice was the "specialty"
crab cake sandwich, a heaping ball of white backfin lump, artfully
bound together with a mystery ingredient that puts it in a prize-winning
category. Sides included choices of French fries, coleslaw,
pasta and applesauce.
Other popular choices, and definitely on the "next-time" list,
are the Hemingway's Cuban sandwich, a Latin favorite consisting
of sliced pork, ham and Swiss cheese, served on a large baguette
with sliced pickles and yellow mustard grilled on the panini
grill. And from the tapas selections, the gambas al ajillo,
unpeeled shrimp sautéed in olive oil and garlic, served with
bread for dipping.
On the evening of our dinner visit, we launched into salads:
Caesar with a tasty house dressing over crisp romaine lettuce
and the house salad of arugula, green pepper, sweet red onion
and cherry tomatoes bathed in a laudable casaba dressing.
One entreé was a cooked-to-order, rare filet mignon (only certified
Angus beef served here) covered with sautéed shrimp. Both were
excellent. My selection was a succulent flounder stuffed with
delicious crab imperial, a seafood lover's delight. Seasonal
vegetables of zucchini, string beans and squash were paired
with fluffy white rice dotted with bits of green and red pepper.
On another occasion, and on the "have-to" list, is one of Hemingway's
biggest sellers, the Atlantic salmon stuffed with sautéed spinach,
mushrooms, shallots, garlic, ricotta cheese and fresh herbs,
topped with a lemon beurre blanc.
The attractive bar area offers an array of domestic, imported
and draft beers as well as a large selection of domestic and
imported wines.
The creative dishes come from the kitchen of Chef Raul "Poncho"
Ledezma, resident chef at Hemingway's for four years. Owner
Arentz reports that Chef Bill Kelly will also join her staff
at Hemingway's in the spring after 13 years at Harriman's House
in Baltimore. His addition is just in time for the stepped-up
demands of fine weather in the main restaurant and in Lola's
Tropical Bar & Grill that occupies the lower floor and outdoor
pavilion.
Lola's is a seasonal entertainment destination serving drinks
and Caribbean light fare, including steamed crabs when the catch
is right. Open from Wednesday through Sunday nights, patrons
enjoy live bands playing music for dancing and listening.
In addition, Biana and her husband Steve operate Hemingway's
catering, organizing sizable events at the restored Chester
River Inn or at a location of your choice.
By car, Hemingway's is 18 miles from Annapolis. Go east on Route
50, cross the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, and take Exit 37 to Route
8 South, turn right on Romancoke Road and follow the signs to
Pier One. You'll wind around to Hemingway's where Bay Bridge
toll receipts are rebated. Boat docking at Pier One Marina is
complimentary when dining at Hemingway's. Call 410-643-3162.
Both the marina and Hemingway's monitor Channel 16. The Bay
Bridge Airport is behind the marina.
Patricia
Barry, a Pisces who resides on Mill Creek, has been a water
and food buff for three decades.
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